Seatpost: TODO diameter. Measured in store 30.4mm after original stolen, although 2020 says 30.9. 30.4mm seemed to fit OK, and measuring with ruler gives 30.5/30.6, I don't think a 30.9 can possibly fit.
Trekking bike bought second hand in 2017. Seller confirmed it is this one https://www.kross.pl/en/2012/trans-alp (archive) but male version (now shown clearly on website, but both exist).
2022-04: could not remove pedals with small 10cm wrench, preparing for trip. Took it to mechanic, they removed without any problem with a Park Tool PW-4, and greased. Glad to see it was not stuck. After that, I was able to remove myself with my 10cm non specialized wrench. Considering getting the Park Tool PW-5 instead of PW-4 which is half the price and just a bit less long. OK Bought it.
2022-03: changed chain after it reached the limit. Very slight slippage on gear 6 as usual, but did not seem enough to require changing the cassette, but rebuying it as soon as I find a good price for next chain for sure, rebuying Shimano HG51 8 Speed 11-32t. OMG it is so expensive now, stocks our out everywhere!
Besides that, have been hearing some noises from the seat post that are worrying me... it never ends... rebuying a Brand-X Layback Seatpost 27.2 diameter 350mm length post to debug.
2021-11: seatpost making noises again... going to try a Brand-X Layback Seatpost 27.2 diameter, which does not have the useless suspension, and has a double bolt system, and sells on wiggle which is a good sign.
2021-11: 3 days after a ride, tire was empty, thought it was vandalism. Inspected, could not see any issues, did a 75km ride, and left a gain, and again it lost air quickly. Opened up tire, and found a thorn of some plant pierced inside, almost invisible from the outside. It also feels like the thorn stuck in place and reduced the rate of air loss, after removing the tube it lost air quite quickly. Could not fully remove thorn, can still feel it with my finger, but too well stuck in tire, but I don't think it is enough to pierce again, I just put a patch set on top of it, and new tube Schwalbe 700C 28'' AV 17, got two of those.
2021-10: changed chain for new one. Found out that the one I bought did not have a quicklink... Also, it did not come in the original package, but in a sealed plastic bag, presumably to reduce shipping costs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XVQ2O0 have to be more careful next time. Lost the Shimano 500ml bottle, was strapped on back carrier of bike, but not safe enough, and I went through rough terrain. Had seen it fall off once before another time, but very rare. When I noticed, had no idea where it had fallen off and didn't go back for it. Buying:
Fit perfectly. Luckily Amazon made me buy two Versamounts, because I needed to use one for each bottle, as the holes on the frame were too close to the bottom and made it impossible to fit both otherwise.
2021-08: back side of teeth of seat post wore off, and the seat is rotating vertically. Identification: markings: ELC (maybe middle letter worn off). 27.2 diameter / 350, 350 is the length from Googling. Has a simple shock absorber system and a single pin to attach the seat. OK, something very similar or the same: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N9ZTD22. BESNIN Suspension seatpost. Full markings are: HARD MDU INSIDE under seat clamp, these match exactly. Tube markings are a bit different.
rear shift cable snapped inside shifter during rid, same as 2020-10, same symptom that could never index higher tension gears well bought new cable
chain reached 0.75+
tried to put front mudgard on, but several problems on this one. The screws needed are wider than those that come. Could keep old ones. But then on top of that, the metal bars are too long and would need cutting about 2 cm, so keeping the old front mudgard for now, which is working perfectly.
2021-06-05: finally removed the old bottom bracket and installed installed the one I had bought a few months back. What triggered this was the clicking noise back again. It appears that the noise got louder with the heat. The clicking noise went away after changing the new bottom bracket. The old bracket seemed fine after inspecting it closely after removal. There was a bit of dirt/earth inside, and some small chippings came out of one side, not sure if from BB or from the frame itself. There are still some other much less loud noises left however, but they are likely a different source, and not a big issue. The clicking noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXBdPg1LhQU
2021-05: got the first flat tire ever on the back wheel! A perfectly shaped pointed triangular rock slotted perfectly into the thread and managed to perforate the inner tube. Managed to patch it up perfectly on the road, 2 hours away from home! The inside of the tire is basically intact, so I'm going to keep using it. The next day I put back an old intact inner tube I had replaced preemptively earlier on with this new one that was punctured.
2021-04: put on the Bluemels mudgard on the back. It wasn't hard, and their system seems quite easy to adjust. Chain reached 1.0 stretch, gotta get a new one.
2021-03: buying mudgard replacement, going for: SKS Bluemels Shiny 45 mm 28" Mudguard Set Silver https://www.deporvillage.net/sks-bluemels-shiny-45-mm-28-mudguard-set-silver 28 pounds with delivery, which looks like the most similar to the old one. Partially choosing that seller because they are the only ones capable of using the precise product name as shown on the SKS website so I'm sure what I'm getting. It does not have flaps though. But flaps fall off and get lost, so fuck it. SKS range: https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/bluemels-series/
buying another Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour Hs404 Performance Line Rigid Tires Size: 700 x 40C for the front wheel which is completely worn off like the back one was: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001IHUC0W?th=1&psc=1 33 pounds.
2021-02-11: tried to put the new wheel in. Made a few discoveries:
I can't take the cassette out anymore again, even though I put it on myself, and the day I put it on, I took it off once to check if I could, so rebuying Shimano Claris CS-HG50-8 11-34t https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2252255352, and if I ever have to take the old one off, I'll take it to the store again
the tire on the old wheel was on the reverse direction, had been ridden for a very long time like that, and the threads are extremely worn
after making insane efforts earlier to put the tire on the wheel, and knowing about directionality, when I actually took it down I noticed I had at some point of my suffering swapped sides and put it on the wrong way in......
I weighted the wheel for fun, assembled with unfilled tire and without the cassette was about 2.5kg
2021-01: moved the saddle forward a bit to 1.8cm was still feeling scapulas before, now seems perfect. Not much effort on hamstrings, but I don't know how to fix both, and not having pain is more important
2020-12: moved the saddle forward back to 2cm, was feeling too much pressure on lower back, and on previous ride, the most tired part of body was behind scapulas, so presumably due to overreach. Felt immediately better.
2020-12-21: put in the new cassette, chainring and chain. Shifting is amazing once again. When pedalling strong on the test run it felt like something on the back hub was vibrating... gotta debug that. Maybe not enough force on closing the cassette?
2020-12: moved saddle back to 2.5cm mark to try and get more hamstring action, but back started hurting. Moved to 2.2cm half way through ride, and it seemed perfect.
2020-12: moved seat post down after https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNGMRtJ5LIc mentioned that saddle too high causes greater asymmetries which I had felt. With dhb Dorica MTB Shoe (2020-12) with cleats straight on 2-mark. First down 15mm from max, but felt really too low. Then down only 7.5mm, and felt great, possibly better than before.
2020-12: moved 2020-04 Giro Rumble VR Off Road Shoe cleats all the way back, and turned the left one a bit outward to better fit let. Got more tired on hamstrings than on quads now, gotta improve that later on maybe for better balance.
2020-12: put more WD-40 on front shifter. Let it dry, then "WD-40 Bike, All Conditions Lube Bicycle". After next four hour ride, shift to 3rd was still working perfectly. Found the culprit.
Put back the rear mudguard. Wheel not hitting it for now. Lost the extra appended protector thingy, was sure I saw it during installation, so maybe it just fell off during next ride? Can't find it at home. Does not make much different for me, might help others behind me though.
2020-12-05: 4 hour ride, very wet and dirty, on start could get into third perfectly, but at end couldn't anymore!!! So it must have been an issue with lubrication on the bottom shift mechanism.
put back the new saddle Selle Royal Scientia, and inspired by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZX3fKolI25Q moved the saddle to 2cm position because I had never felt my hamstrings. It did feel much better! I felt my hamstrigs more, and butt took much longer to get soggy, maybe only around 2 hour mark! Started feeling lower back more though.
fixed the can't get into 3rd gear problem. Did the following:
without cable tension, it changed easily
sprayed HD40 on shifter and hinges near bottom bracket
still didn't shift
reduced tension. This made me manage to change to the 3rd. It must be highlighted how sensitive this was to tension. 5 quarter screws on the shifter barrel were the difference between being able to shift or not
one more thing Ciro noticed, is that he had possibly previously held up the front gear before attaching the cable, therefore possibly overly tensioning it. It might be better to just instead pull the end of the cable with a pair of pliers to remove slack, but wihtout making the gear move up, that is enough. Then finish tuning on the shifter arrel adjuster
then since everything was out and ready, also changed shift cable just in case. The new one had a bit less friction, but not a lot less, so it did not feel like it was what solved the problem
2020-11-22: put back old saddle, one inch from back, did 6 hour ride, it is more comfortable than new one. Butt was soggy at some points, but much less than new saddle.
2020-11-08: used park Tool PAW-12 adjustable wrench and park Tool BBT-22 to remove bottom bracket to debug noise. After putting everything together, it seemed gone on a very short test ride. The bottom bracket itself seemed fine. There was a bit of dirt, but didn't seem critical. What felt more off was that the drive side cranck arm came off much more easily than the non-drive side one, suggesting it was not tight enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPQyQnNdews "Crank Removal and Installation - Three Piece Crankset (Square Spindle, ISIS, Octalink)" by Park Tool (2015) suggests that this is a common cause of noise, so maybe removing the bottom bracket wasn't needed after all this time. But it's done at least.
moved saddle backwards a bit to 1 cm mark, was feeling like butt was falling off the back a bit at 0 cm. After this, it felt better, but still a bit mushy after 4 hour ride
been hearing a clicking noise when pedalling, left foot at about 7 o'clock. Going to open it up.
2020-10-04 bought a new inner shift cable for the rear derailleur from bike shop, bulk without visible branding. The plastic shifter casing screw was stripped, could not get it off. OMG I had done that just yesterday on the road for the diagnosis! How is it possible? So soft!!!! I just proped the plastic open with a flat screw driver and managed to insert the cable. However, the previous problem still remains: I can't get smooth shift to faster gears on the rear.
2020-08: buying Selle Royal Scientia M2 saddle: https://www.selleroyal.com/en/scientia-m-2 based on 60 degree riding position and 110mm sitbone distance ciro Santilli's body. Had felt a little bit of pain on butt muscle but it passed. But also noticed that the UNICLO shorts ripped a bit, and it might be due to the terrible state of the saddle. Felt good on first ride around the block. Harder than previous, and narrower. Feels higher quality and better fitting.
2020-04: attempted to use 2020-04 DECARETA Pedal Spanner to remove left pedal that would not come off with generic short wrench and has been ticking a bit for several months, and now sometimes appears to do false spins! The think must be completely destroyed. Failed, too hard.
2020-04: was trying to remove left pedal with short wrench I had, impossible. Later noticed that the kick up stand was a bit bent! Tried to turn it around, but did not manage to make it improve much. Later during a ride, the new position was too close to the spokes, and started to hit the spokes! When I got home, tried to remove the fucking kickstand, but it had a flat bolt in a deep place between the rear tubes, and I couldn't do it with my simple wrenches. Went to bike shop next day, and they removed it, likely with a deep wrench. The piece was thrown away.
2020-03: finally installed the new derailleur after long suffering, including new cables and casing on front and back derailleurs and on back brake. Took 3 1-2 hour sessions, but it became amazing.
2020-02: Bought unbranded bike bell sold in bulk from bike shop, 1.50 pound. Markings: SX. Old bell made louder sound. This type of simple mechanism: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GZ3TFFM
2020-01-13: Parked on city center, shitty low diagonal place, crowded. When came back, bike on floor, had dropped hard since front wheel twisted on axis, untwisted with leg. When got home, noticed that right gear shifter was half coming off. Later found out that the piece broken on one of the screws, hanging only by the other screw. Next day morning, noticed that the bell had come off, and was lost, went back on evening but obviously could not find it.
2019-08-29: rear derailleur fell off, later found it was bent: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yRgAc1FvKvcuCmcj7 Many bikes were parked together, I think other bikes put gear wires were a bit off, and I started pedalling very strong, and it immediately fell off. Went to repair shop, replaced it likely with: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N51YIYZ (archive) "Shimano Cambio Post. 6/7v RD-TY300 Tourney TX Att. Dir.". Visible markings: "Shimano Tourney Paid 35 pounds, receipt said 25 for piece 10 for service, but piece actually cost 18 on Amazon, and with Prime / larger buys only 7 pounds. I'm also a bit worried because my back cassette is 8 speed, not 7... On official website RD-TY300-SGS: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY300-SGS.html (archive)
2019-07-26: the front crank was sometimes making loud cracking noises when I pedalled hard. Then, after two weeks, it also started making very loud screeching noises, and then finally I couldn't pedal anymore, and I took it to the shop. They changed the bottom bracket, 45 pounds, 30 for the piece, a Shimano BB UN55 bottom bracket markings: SEALED CARTRIDGE UNIT, SHIMANAO BB-UN55, VIA INDONESIA, 68 QC BC1.37x24, L XL118 R:
Photo of the piece that was taken out, notice some broken metal pieces and one of the ball bearing that were left: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6sqbM4kgDG5Pm7p58 Replacement/servicing:
Tick on back wheel stopped. Back brake did not get better. Gears not improved. Rust remained, was told too hard to remove, and not on teeth, so should not matter.
Bottom bracket: TODO, have a picture after it broke later on and was removed by shop, but did not catch full markings, visible: JIS DIN EN-14777. JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard (JIS), related: https://www.velodrome.shop/square-taper-jis/iso/
Saddle: completely destroyed when he decided to identify it for replacement in 2020. Website said "Selle Royal Freedom Royalgel". Markings (badly worn out): "yalgel", freeDom inscribed on saddle, so that's it.
Frame markings: Trekking (two stylized trees on left, one with two triangles and the other 3 triangles), Frame Size: M. Feels more or less the right size for me. Maybe L would be better, as my butt tends to go off the back of the saddle, which I always cranck to the most backward position possible. Markings under bottom bracket: on metal: LY2B 016042 KROSS EN1746. On a sticker, badly worn off: K828130 2?Z018 0004.
Gear shifters: don't know exact model since could not find markings (fuck you Shimano?) but from photos online, seems to be one of the ST-EF* family EZ FIRE, e.g. ST-EF65-8 or ST-EF500.
Front light: AXA Sprint 10 Switch LED Front Light https://www.bike24.com/p213267.html Wire connector for back light: "Crimp Quick Disconnect Terminals". Tried 2.5mm but too large, size refers to each left/right wrinkle.
Crankset: markings "Shimano", "FC-M311", "Hyperdrive", "Dual SiS index", from Google part of Altus: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M311-2675A.pdf (archive). There are two possible tooth counts, I counted 48T on largest, so it is the 48/38/28 one. There are two arm sizes though, 170mm vs 175mm, not sure which one mine is, very hard to measure, I think it was 170mm. Installation at: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-0094A-001-ENG.pdf (archive) says to use "8 mm Allen key or a cotterless crank extractor (TL-FC10)". Identification: https://youtu.be/VMV-SOIhM2c?t=258 "Three Piece Crank of type Square Tapered Spin"
Front derailleur: markings Shimano Altus, 66-69 degrees, blue circle with two balls hyperdrive logo on top. Possibly Shimano Altus Front Derailleur FD-M310: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FD-M310-2676B.pdf
2021-11: buying a Cateye ViZ450 https://www.cateye.com/intl/products/safety_lights/TL-LD820/ 51 dollars after CatEye RAPID X2 was stolen. Unfortunately, it is not very compatible with my Topeak saddle bag... the attachment is to wide to fit the saddble bag, and even if it did it is slanted to account for seat tube slant so it would not be very verfical. Arghh, they have futher options on the website: https://www.cateye.com/intl/products/parts/5342460/ that is the one I need, Clip C-2 or Clip C-1N. On Amazon it didn't have clear choices for that... mine came with the BracketSP-15. Ah, can buy on Amazon for 3 dollars, OK then.
2021-09: COZYROOMY multitool stolen, even though it was completely in pieces already. 2021-09-21 12:30PM discovered, seat bag open, one tool on floor, and some leftovers inside, but black bag gone. Bicycle last seen 2021-09-20 6PM. Would likely have spotted it if it had happened before. Bicycle last used: 2021-09-19 6PM. Would almost for sure have seen it if it had happened by then. Rebought it.
2020-11-30: Bought more "Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube" 8oz/240ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z779GMO/ after previous disaster with the bottle because lock is a bit hard to open.
2020-11-30 WD-40 Bike, All Conditions Lube Bicycle Lubricant, 250ml. Markings: "Contains PTFE". https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8QF3PY Sprays out of bottle, so very thin.
2020-02: CatEye AMPP500 45 pounds https://www.cateye.com/intl/products/headlights/HL-EL085RC/ High mode 500 lumens: 1.5hrs, Daytime HyperConstant mode 500/250 lumens： 5hrs. 2020-11: noticed it was cracked on top front between button and light, I think I dropped it the other day from waist height.
2019-11: Multitool: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MW3K2GK "COZYROOMY Bike Repair Kits - Bicycle tool kit with 10 in 1 Multi-Function Bike Tool, multi-purpose bone wrench And related spare tools, 1 Portable tool bag, 6 Month Warranty". No spoke wrench unfortunately. But does have 15mm bone wrench, which opens Kross front wheel. Some months later, the thing came apart, quality was a bit shit. But I kept it in the saddle bag anyways for a long time, and just used it by putting part of it manually together.
2019-11: "CatEye RAPID X2" real lights, 40 dollars. Hopefully to increase side visibility at night, and day visibility on fast roads when cycling further on weekends. https://www.cateye.com/intl/products/safety_lights/TL-LD710-R/ (archive) USB rechargeable. 80 lumens in high mode lasting 1 hour, 5 hours in low mode, 30 hours flashing, 16 hours rapid/pulse. Lost 2021-11 in a big city, didn't know the path well, had to cross a bunch of streets, was on back of back bag, likely stolen.
2019-10 Finish Line Dry Teflon Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B704LZW (archive) Tube broke while opening the first day. I glued it with some superglue, but two months later found it leaked into my "oils bag", so I threw it away... it must have penetrated through the super glue.
2019-08: "CatEye CA475RAPMIN Rapid Mini Rear Lights and Reflectors, Black" stolen: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01I4193PY (archive). Very good quality. Those USB rechargeable lights you just have got to take off with you whenever parked in town or else drug addicts will steal them because they are easy to remove for recharging. Tempted to just stick to dynamo ones that are screwed in. Re-bought original back light: AXA Basta, was a bit different from previous one, cannot take in lamps anymore, even though there is the plastic casing for them! Just not metal / wires.
dhb Windproof Cycling Gloves Small Black 33 dollars to replace the Nike academy hyperwam gloves which I lost a pair of recently. It already had a hole in the thumb anyways from shifting the small gears all the time. S was way too small despite me making hand measurement, returned.
dhb C1.0 Crossover Helmet Matte Black 58-61cm 40 dollars after recent crash to ensure helmet integrity
2021-01: "Endura FS260-NEMO Glove II" Neoprene Winter Handwarmer Large. https://www.endurasport.com/Gants-Nemo-FS260-Pro-II/p/E1216-Black Let's see how neoprene feels like. Basically it becomes wet with your transpiration, but is still relatively warm, would take it well down to 5C. Likely would work well with heavy rain. Not bad. But does feel a bit cooler than the Extremities XDRY, especially after you walk for a bit, and your hand becomes cold, and it is very hard to warm it because it is also wet.
2020-12-21: "dhb Neoprene Nylon Overshoes" https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-neoprene-nylon-overshoes large black. After 2 rides, noticed that the front lower part of left foot (the one I put on and off the most) had a hole in it, not sure where it was made. Edit: I later noticed that it is because I have the reflex of braking slightly with my shoes in certain conditions, e.g. at lower speeds in close proximity to pedestrians, the sounds of which also serve as a way to alert them without the need for a loud bell. But it destroys the overshoe, so I have to undo that reflex.
last ride top was a bit cold on shoulders where not covered by arm warmers, about 10C, so going to try: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-aeron-rain-defence-polartec-jacket-1 "dhb Aeron All Winter Softshell Jacket", 109.25 pounds, Fluro Yellow, small to match previous tops that worked, approx: 50 polyester, 40 polyamide, 10 elastane, recommended temperature: 2-12 degrees Celcius. Material felt OK, not amazing but OK. Returned because a bit too small.
the "dhb Classic Thermal Bib Tights" is a bit too warm for lower tens, so going to try "dhb Aeron FLT Roubaix Bib Tight", 85.50 pounds, medium, navy color, recommended temperatures: 6-14 deg C, 84% polyamide, 16% elastane. Hopefully not being marked as "thermal" means it is less warm. Also hopefully being DHB Aeron it will be a bit less baggy behind knees. Returned later because felt indistinguishable from the "dhb Classic Thermal Bib Tights".
2020-08: started getting getting cold, so let's do it:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-lightweight-mesh-long-sleeve-base-layer "dhb Lightweight Mesh Long Sleeve Base Layer", small, 93% polyester 7% Elastane. Felt a little bit tight on first try, but I think I'll keep it, it might be correct, it's hard to say, and it's not worth my time. If it is too bad I'll just get another one later.
Extremely light and transparent. Holds down to lower 10's, but if it's windy a bit less so. Feels good.
2020-05 https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-aeron-short-sleeve-jersey-4/ dhb Aeron Short Sleeve Jersey 100% polyester, Red Large. This one fit OK. Length feels right. When on cycling position, a bit baggy under arms though, but guessing M would be too short? Still already feels less baggy than the cheap muddy fox jersey. Aeron is the second lowest level of DHB top, after the super basic 25 pound one. Material is thin polyester, could be better, but OK.
2019-12 https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-merino-long-sleeve-base-layer-1/?sku=5360752872 "dhb Merino Long Sleeve Base Layer", black, small, was right size, wool is a bit itchy, but does feel like it dries off more quickly on long rides than the cheap Muddy Fox polyester cycling Jersey. Pretty warm, too much for 15C.
2019-10 XGC Men's Cycling Shorts/Bike Shorts And Cycling Underwear With High-Density High-Elasticity And Highly Breathable 4D Sponge Padded https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BDJP64W (archive). Grey color, red inner butt padding. 2020-08: after using it a lot, noticed that the padding stiches started to come off a bit.
2018 (?) Extremities XDRY gloves Looks like: https://www.sportsdirect.com/extremities-wp-p/line-glove-91-907293 (archive) Gets wet after a few minutes of medium rain. But does dry quickly. Baggy, multilayer. Says 40 pounds, but always at 20 pound discount, so it is just a marketing trick. On website: Outershell 96% Polyester/4% Lycra (Spandex)Palm 45% Polyester/55% PolyurethaneLining 100% Polyester
2015 Odlo top and tights, polyester. Not sure exact model, not necessarily meant for cycling. Top does not fit tightly, did not feel like it was removing sweat effectively.
palm tree shade and coconut water. Seriously though, if there's some shade or earlier morning/later afternoon it's OK, but if it's on an open road at midday, be careful, and stop early if you start getting slightly dizzy, it only gets worse!
When it arrived, it felt a bit too long, around 2cm maybe free space after toe, and when I walk and the front part touches ground, heel comes off a bit, which is annoying. But I was too lazy to give it back and take the risk of a second try, also it felt correctly tight on sides. During first test ride it felt good.
It is slightly water proof. But if it rains a lot, it will get soaking wet. And once it does get wet, it feels like it is very very hard to dry, there don't seem to be any holes underneath.
2021-01-28: used this show for the first time after wearing dhb Dorica MTB Shoe (2020-12) exclusively for a while. It felt much much more comfortable, the Dorica is too narrow. Also this one is much more recessed, and walking with it is much easier. Also, I notice that the intentional asymmetry I had put on cleats is not necessary anymore now that my saddle height is not way too high
It is not possible to do long walks with this, unlike some websites suggests, especially on hard surfaces like rock, that would be very dangerous because the cleat area will slip. But it is good for shorter walks on grass/mud, and that does open up some good short walk exploration possibilities compared to a road shoe.
Color "Black/Red 20" (but it's actually orange), size 46 https://www.wiggle.co.uk/giro-rumble-vr-off-road-shoe (archive). Manual says to use Loctite 243 medium strength, first 2.4 Nm bolt torque to test it out and find good position, and then final bolt torque 5-6 Nm unless cleat says less. Starting with Shimano SM-SH56 cleats (archive), which also says provisional torque 2.5 Nm, tightening torque 5-6 Nm.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VL2MLYY DECARETA Pedal Spanner Bike Pedal Wrench Three-in-one Function Bicycle Pedal Spanner 24mm Front and Rear Axle Spanner Pedal Install Spanner Repair Tool with Anti-Skidding Long Handle (Silver) £10.99.
Got dented the first time I tried to use it in the kross bicycle (2017). All Amazon reviews say the same thing, should have read first, and bought instead known brand like Park And Tool which is the same price. Material advertized on Amazon: "Steel alloy and rubber".
