2021-05: got the first flat tire ever on the back wheel! A perfectly shaped pointed triangular rock slotted perfectly into the thread and managed to perforate the inner tube. Managed to patch it up perfectly on the road, 2 hours away from home! The inside of the tire is basically intact, so I'm going to keep using it. The next day I put back an old intact inner tube I had replaced preemptively earlier on with this new one that was punctured.
2021-04: put on the Bluemels mudgard on the back. It wasn't hard, and their system seems quite easy to adjust. Chain reached 1.0 stretch, gotta get a new one.
2021-03: clicking noise when pedalling strong driving me crazy. Likely bottom bracket: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/41149/something-clicks-while-pedaling or maybe pedal. Re-buying the exact same Shimano BB-UN55 Bottom Bracket - Silver, 68-118: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224364037969
2021-03: buying mudgard replacement, going for: SKS Bluemels Shiny 45 mm 28" Mudguard Set Silver https://www.deporvillage.net/sks-bluemels-shiny-45-mm-28-mudguard-set-silver 28 pounds with delivery, which looks like the most similar to the old one. Partially choosing that seller because they are the only ones capable of using the precise product name as shown on the SKS website so I'm sure what I'm getting. It does not have flaps though. But flaps fall off and get lost, so fuck it. SKS range: https://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/bluemels-series/
- buying 2 pairs of Shimano Y8BM9803A Brake Shoe Set M70T4, only need one for front now, back has new M70T3: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01504E7LS. Documentation is the same as for M70T3: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-SHOE-ATB2-1414L.pdf and sounds strictly better:
Only for side wall machined rims. Performs especially well in wet conditions and may pass DIN standard. Tend to be low noise, low rim wear and fade.It appears that "non-machined rims" don't exist anymore: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/183806-How-important-are-machine-sidewalls-vs-non-machined
- buying another Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour Hs404 Performance Line Rigid Tires Size: 700 x 40C for the front wheel which is completely worn off like the back one was: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001IHUC0W?th=1&psc=1 33 pounds.
2021-03-07: one of the wires of the rear mudguard broke due to vibrations! It still kind of works, but gotta get a new one.
2021-02-20: replaced new wheel. Worked fine. Also measured chain stretch between 0.5 and 0.75.
2021-02-14: in preparation for wheel switch, also getting https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m-system-m600-pair-of-brake-blocks Shimano M-System M600 Pair Of Brake Blocks. More precise markings: M70T3 Deore LX, AL (aluminium) https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-SHOE-ATB2-1414L.pdf Reads: "Performs especially well in wet conditions and may pass DIN standards. Gives off less noise, but the pad is heavier, faster rim wear and tends to fade. "
2021-02-11: tried to put the new wheel in. Made a few discoveries:
- I can't take the cassette out anymore again, even though I put it on myself, and the day I put it on, I took it off once to check if I could, so rebuying Shimano Claris CS-HG50-8 11-34t https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2252255352, and if I ever have to take the old one off, I'll take it to the store again
- the tire on the old wheel was on the reverse direction, had been ridden for a very long time like that, and the threads are extremely worn
- after making insane efforts earlier to put the tire on the wheel, and knowing about directionality, when I actually took it down I noticed I had at some point of my suffering swapped sides and put it on the wrong way in......
- I weighted the wheel for fun, assembled with unfilled tire and without the cassette was about 2.5kg
2021-01: ETC Rim Tape 700 40C for the new wheel. No packaging, but possibly: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0063HIIOY
2021-01: moved the saddle forward a bit to 1.8cm was still feeling scapulas before, now seems perfect. Not much effort on hamstrings, but I don't know how to fix both, and not having pain is more important
2020-12: moved the saddle forward back to 2cm, was feeling too much pressure on lower back, and on previous ride, the most tired part of body was behind scapulas, so presumably due to overreach. Felt immediately better.
2020-12-22: felt like rear hub had a bit of friction, can't fix vibration, going to try the buying a new whole wheel:
- https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/m-part-shimano-deore-mavic-a319-silver-dt-swiss-p-g-36-hole-rear-wheel Found by Googling same rim as original "Mavic A319". Site markings: WLC503 M PART SHIMANO DEORE / MAVIC A319 SILVER / DT SWISS P/G 36 HOLE 700C HYBRID REAR WHEEL. Cannot find a single website that gives exact rear hub model, but hopefully Deore will match, looks the same. 70 pounds. Does not come with rim tape.
- Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour Hs404 Performance Line Rigid Tires Size: 700 x 40C. Just going to get the entire thing to have leave a backup wheel.
2020-12-21: put in the new cassette, chainring and chain. Shifting is amazing once again. When pedalling strong on the test run it felt like something on the back hub was vibrating... gotta debug that. Maybe not enough force on closing the cassette?
2020-12-20: tried to replace entire drive chain after over stretched chain destroyed teeth. Chainring and pedals came off nicely, but cassette was stuck, but I took it to the shop and they managed: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18465/how-can-i-remove-a-stuck-rear-cassette/74041#74041
2020-12: moved saddle back to 2.5cm mark to try and get more hamstring action, but back started hurting. Moved to 2.2cm half way through ride, and it seemed perfect.
2020-12: moved saddle post down after https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNGMRtJ5LIc mentioned that saddle too high causes greater asymmetries which I had felt. With dhb Dorica MTB Shoe (2020-12) with cleats straight on 2-mark. First down 15mm from max, but felt really too low. Then down only 7.5mm, and felt great, possibly better than before.
2020-12: moved 2020-04 Giro Rumble VR Off Road Shoe cleats all the way back, and turned the left one a bit outward to better fit let. Got more tired on hamstrings than on quads now, gotta improve that later on maybe for better balance.
2020-12: put more WD-40 on front shifter. Let it dry, then "WD-40 Bike, All Conditions Lube Bicycle". After next four hour ride, shift to 3rd was still working perfectly. Found the culprit.
Put back the rear mudguard. Wheel not hitting it for now. Lost the extra appended protector thingy, was sure I saw it during installation, so maybe it just fell off during next ride? Can't find it at home. Does not make much different for me, might help others behind me though.
2020-12-05: 4 hour ride, very wet and dirty, on start could get into third perfectly, but at end couldn't anymore!!! So it must have been an issue with lubrication on the bottom shift mechanism.
- test rode 3rd gear shift, completely smooth now!
- put back the new saddle Selle Royal Scientia, and inspired by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZX3fKolI25Q moved the saddle to 2cm position because I had never felt my hamstrings. It did feel much better! I felt my hamstrigs more, and butt took much longer to get soggy, maybe only around 2 hour mark! Started feeling lower back more though.
- fixed the can't get into 3rd gear problem. Did the following:
- without cable tension, it changed easily
- sprayed HD40 on shifter and hinges near bottom bracket
- still didn't shift
- reduced tension. This made me manage to change to the 3rd. It must be highlighted how sensitive this was to tension. 5 quarter screws on the shifter barrel were the difference between being able to shift or not
- one more thing Ciro noticed, is that he had possibly previously held up the front gear before attaching the cable, therefore possibly overly tensioning it. It might be better to just instead pull the end of the cable with a pair of pliers to remove slack, but wihtout making the gear move up, that is enough. Then finish tuning on the shifter arrel adjuster
- then since everyting was out and ready, also changed shift cable just in case. The new one had a bit less friction, but not a lot less, so it did not feel like it was what solved the problem
- also better inspected the chainrings. Middle one is visibly worn due to the century old chain, even more so than the teeth of the cassettes on the back.. so here we go again, more FC-M311: https://www.bikeparts.co.uk/products/shimano-fc-m311-altus-square-taper-chainset-48-38-28t-with-chainguard-175-mm Can't find how to buy just chainring itself.
2020-11-28: can't stand slippage anymore, going to change cassette too, rebuying Shimano Claris CS-HG50-8 11-34t: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2252255352 20 pounds
2020-11-26: left hand large gear almost impossibly hard to switch to largest gear. The gear switches on chainring, but it won't click and stay in place, related: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/46172/front-shifter-wont-shift-into-3rd
2020-11-22: put back old saddle, one inch from back, did 6 hour ride, it is more comfortable than new one. Butt was soggy at some points, but much less than new saddle.
2020-11-19: noticed that chain slips if I pedal very strongly, and especially if I try to stand up: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7928/why-does-my-gear-slip-when-going-uphill-standing Does not happen on the largest chainring. Have to check the smallest one, as it is harder to check there. Took to shop, they said chain worn out with tool measurement, and cassette worn out.
Bought Shimano CN-HG71 8 speed chain 19 pounds, with quicklink: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/city---trekking-e-bike-e6100-series/CN-HG71.html | https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/city---trekking-e-bike-e6100-series/CN-HG71.html, it is from the Acera line. The price in-store was good, on Amazon Prime, would have been 27 pounds! https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JJWR12U There were two chain options, a cheaper 12 pound one, and the more expensive. TODO difference? Maybe the cheap one is CN-HG40, which is from the Tourney line?
I inspected the cassette myself later on, but it did not appear significantly worn out in my newbie opinion.
2020-11-08: used park Tool PAW-12 adjustable wrench and park Tool BBT-22 to remove bottom bracket to debug noise. After putting everything together, it seemed gone on a very short test ride. The bottom bracket itself seemed fine. There was a bit of dirt, but didn't seem critical. What felt more off was that the drive side cranck arm came off much more easily than the non-drive side one, suggesting it was not tight enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPQyQnNdews "Crank Removal and Installation - Three Piece Crankset (Square Spindle, ISIS, Octalink)" by Park Tool (2015) suggests that this is a common cause of noise, so maybe removing the bottom bracket wasn't needed after all this time. But it's done at least.
- moved saddle backwards a bit to 1 cm mark, was feeling like butt was falling off the back a bit at 0 cm. After this, it felt better, but still a bit mushy after 4 hour ride
- been hearing a clicking noise when pedalling, left foot at about 7 o'clock. Going to open it up.
2020-10-04 bought a new inner shift cable for the rear derailleur from bike shop, bulk without visible branding. The plastic shifter casing screw was stripped, could not get it off. OMG I had done that just yesterday on the road for the diagnosis! How is it possible? So soft!!!! I just proped the plastic open with a flat screw driver and managed to insert the cable. However, the previous problem still remains: I can't get smooth shift to faster gears on the rear.
2020-10-03 was having rear shifting issues for a while, and today it stopped working completely. Opened and noticed that the shift cable had ruptured inside the shifter!!! Related: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/40536/shifter-cable-broke-down-misuse-lack-of-maintenance-shifter-or-regular-occurr This has been only 11 months since last change.
2020-08: buying Selle Royal Scientia M2 saddle: https://www.selleroyal.com/en/scientia-m-2 based on 60 degree riding position and 110mm sitbone distance ciro Santilli's body. Had felt a little bit of pain on butt muscle but it passed. But also noticed that the UNICLO shorts ripped a bit, and it might be due to the terrible state of the saddle. Felt good on first ride around the block. Harder than previous, and narrower. Feels higher quality and better fitting.
2020-06-06: replaced front brake pads with the Jagire ones previously bought (one pair already been put on rear brakes)
2020-04-19: tried to remove left pedal again with 2020-04 DECARETA Pedal Spanner, put more force, and the tool itself actually got dented and started spinning freely around the pedal. I give up, will change crank arm. Can't find just the left crank arm, and not sure if 170/175, so just buying the entire thing: Shimano Altus FC-M311 Crank set 48T/38T/28T with chaingard: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-0094A-001-ENG.pdf | https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M311-2675A.pdf | https://www.deporvillage.net/shimano-altus-m311-175mm-78-speed-chain-set-483828-black at 175mm which is the correct one for my height as mentioned at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUygkHlcVMQ
2020-04: bought Shimano Deore PD-M324 pedals in preparation for flat to SPD switch: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-t6000/PD-M324.html (archive) | https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m324-combination-pedals, since I'll remove the pedals at somepoint anyways, first learnt at: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30662/can-i-use-normal-shoes-trainers-with-clipless-pedals/30720#30720 can be used with normal shoes too. SPD/plataform double side chosen to so I can both commute with on regular shoes and ride further for sport with SPD shoes. Cleat type: SM-SH56. Praying to God that the thread size is universal as mentioned at: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10162/whats-difference-between-1-2-and-9-16-inch-pedals When they arrived noticed they felt quite heavy! 533g. Let's see. The non double sided is 455g though: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m530-mtb-spd-trail-pedals/. And a full roadie one like PD-RS500 SPD-SL weights 320g.
2020-04: attempted to use 2020-04 DECARETA Pedal Spanner to remove left pedal that would not come off with generic short wrench and has been ticking a bit for several months, and now sometimes appears to do false spins! The think must be completely destroyed. Failed, too hard.
2020-04: was trying to remove left pedal with short wrench I had, impossible. Later noticed that the kick up stand was a bit bent! Tried to turn it around, but did not manage to make it improve much. Later during a ride, the new position was too close to the spokes, and started to hit the spokes! When I got home, tried to remove the fucking kickstand, but it had a flat bolt in a deep place between the rear tubes, and I couldn't do it with my simple wrenches. Went to bike shop next day, and they removed it, likely with a deep wrench. The piece was thrown away.
2020-03: finally installed the new derailleur after long suffering, including new cables and casing on front and back derailleurs and on back brake. Took 3 1-2 hour sessions, but it became amazing.
2020-03: screw on left shifter (yes, the bloody screw) broke when trying to open it to take out cable. Buying left and right since the right one was broken from previous fall. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073XQ8J78 SHIMANO ST-EF65-8 EZI FIRE STI SHIFTERS 24 SPEED (3 x 8), 25 pounds https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-ST-EF65-9R4-3257B.pdf
2020-02: Bought unbranded bike bell sold in bulk from bike shop, 1.50 pound. Markings: SX. Old bell made louder sound. This type of simple mechanism: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GZ3TFFM
2020-01-13: Parked on city center, shitty low diagonal place, crowded. When came back, bike on floor, had dropped hard since front wheel twisted on axis, untwisted with leg. When got home, noticed that right gear shifter was half coming off. Later found out that the piece broken on one of the screws, hanging only by the other screw. Next day morning, noticed that the bell had come off, and was lost, went back on evening but obviously could not find it.
2019-11: Jagire brake pads 2x V 11.50 pounds: https://jagwire.com/products/brake-pads/cross-rim-brake-pads (archive)
2019-11: Can't index rear derailleur, buying:
- Shimano Claris RD-2400-GS 8-speed rear derailleur long cage (RD == Rear Deralleur, GS == long cage) 25 pounds: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D9ENDU8 https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/claris-2400/RD-2400-GS.html (archive)
- Shimano Road Shift Cable Set Y60098022 manual: https://web.archive.org/web/20180219062741/https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-Cable-Set2-3128.pdf | 10 pounds: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00510WI72 (archive)
- shift cable front and back internal and external: 6 pounds internal 6 pounds external, Jagwire LEX bulk https://jagwire.com/guides/housing (archive)
TODO exact model. Polish brand. Hybrid style bike: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_bicycle
2019-08-29: rear derailleur fell off, later found it was bent: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yRgAc1FvKvcuCmcj7 Many bikes were parked together, I think other bikes put gear wires were a bit off, and I started pedalling very strong, and it immediately fell off. Went to repair shop, replaced it likely with: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N51YIYZ (archive) "Shimano Cambio Post. 6/7v RD-TY300 Tourney TX Att. Dir.". Visible markings: "Shimano Tourney Paid 35 pounds, receipt said 25 for piece 10 for service, but piece actually cost 18 on Amazon, and with Prime / larger buys only 7 pounds. I'm also a bit worried because my back cassette is 8 speed, not 7... On official website RD-TY300-SGS: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY300-SGS.html (archive)
2019-07-26: the front crank was sometimes making loud cracking noises when I pedalled hard. Then, after two weeks, it also started making very loud screeching noises, and then finally I couldn't pedal anymore, and I took it to the shop. They changed the bottom bracket, 45 pounds, 30 for the piece, a Shimano BB UN55 bottom bracket markings: SEALED CARTRIDGE UNIT, SHIMANAO BB-UN55, VIA INDONESIA, 68 QC BC1.37x24, L XL118 R:
Photo of the piece that was taken out, notice some broken metal pieces and one of the ball bearing that were left: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6sqbM4kgDG5Pm7p58 Replacement/servicing:
2019-08: front mudguards were making too much noise, cannot find brand. Removed them. Then in 2019-10 rain started, and I bought a new one.
2019-06-30: fill tires, using 90PSI, was TODO
2019-06-20: right gear wire broke, when opened for fixing was rusty near hand shifter
2019-04-07: fill tires, using 90PSI, was 40PSI. Also on Giant Flourish.
2019-03-30: repair bearings back wheel, true back wheel, remove rust from chain. Result: 50 pounds:
- cassette Shimano Claris CS-HG50-8, 8 speed: https://bike.shimano.com/en-NZ/product/component/claris-r2000/CS-HG50-8.html tooth counts: 11T-13T-15T-18T-21T-24T-28T-34T http://web.archive.org/web/20191119105727/https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/claris-r2000/CS-HG50-8.html
- chain KMC Z51 7-8X Chain because 0.7 stretch reached (limit 0.5). Markings: Z, 9A, KMC, NARROW. Looks like this but fully silver: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KMC-Z-51-Z-8S-Speed-Silver/dp/B01I1GL49U (archive), image: https://web.archive.org/web/20190830081307/https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/314Z3-1WxJL.jpg
- oil on back wheel bearings no replace
Tick on back wheel stopped. Back brake did not get better. Gears not improved. Rust remained, was told too hard to remove, and not on teeth, so should not matter.
2018-09-02: spoke https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/spokes-nipples/spokes/dt-champion/ + minor brake work 41 pounds full work
2018: front tire blew up and was replaced by TODO.
2017: bought, specs:
Bottom bracket: TODO, have a picture after it broke later on and was removed by shop, but did not catch full markings, visible: JIS DIN EN-14777. JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard (JIS), related: https://www.velodrome.shop/square-taper-jis/iso/
Saddle: completely destroyed when he decided to identify it for replacement in 2020. Website said "Selle Royal Freedom Royalgel". Markings (badly worn out): "yalgel", freeDom inscribed on saddle, so that's it.
Frame markings: Trekking (two stylized trees on left, one with two triangles and the other 3 triangles), Frame Size: M. Feels like the right size for me.
Back wheel: quick release.
Front wheel: no quick release, wrench size 15mm.
Back hub: Shimano FH-RM30, so possibly FH-RM30-8-QR mentioned at https://productinfo.shimano.com/download?path=pdfs/archive/2010_SPECIFICATION.pdf
Rear rim markings: Mavic, A319, Made in France, inserted in 36 hole marking, therefore presumably https://shop.mavic.com/en-gb/a-319-j24500.html#1028=3283&1035=3501 Aluminium alloy 6106
Back derailleur: markings: Shimano DEORE. Looks exactly like this "Shimano Deore RD-M591 9 Speed Rear Mech": https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-m591-9-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod40543 (archive), manuals: https://web.archive.org/web/20191119094532/https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-RD-M591-2910.pdf and https://web.archive.org/web/20191119094534/https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-6S90A-001-ENG.pdf. Similar product on Shimano website (not exactly the same, was not on sale anymore): https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m6000/RD-M6000-GS.html (archive)
Back light: AXA Basta Ray LED Rear Light. Markings read: "basta X-Ray Steady STANDLICHT Z K 257 TP RBi 1017". Powered either by 2 AAA bareies in series or by the front hub dynamo: https://www.bike24.com/p213276.html | http://web.archive.org/web/20190821070347/https://www.bike24.com/p213276.html
Front tire: did not take note, was later changed.
Front hub: Shimano DH-3N20 dynamo front hub 6V 3.0W https://www.fawkes-cycles.co.uk/2912/products/shimano-nexus-dh-3n20-6v-30w-nutted-dynamo-front-hub-for-use-with-rim-brakes-36h.aspx | http://web.archive.org/web/20190821065910/https://www.fawkes-cycles.co.uk/2912/products/shimano-nexus-dh-3n20-6v-30w-nutted-dynamo-front-hub-for-use-with-rim-brakes-36h.aspx
Speed meter: Speedmaster 5000, CR2032 battery. https://26bikes.com/shop/accessories/computers/wire/prod/speedmaster-5000 | http://web.archive.org/web/20190418182410/https://26bikes.com/shop/accessories/computers/wire/prod/speedmaster-5000
Front light: AXA Sprint 10 Switch LED Front Light https://www.bike24.com/p213267.html Wire connector for back light: "Crimp Quick Disconnect Terminals". Tried 2.5mm but too large, size refers to each left/right wrinkle.
Grips: Herrmans Primergo, looks like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LZSJ30Q
Crankset: markings "Shimano", "FC-M311", "Hyperdrive", "Dual SiS index", from Google part of Altus: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-M311-2675A.pdf (archive). There are two possible tooth counts, I counted 48T on largest, so it is the 48/38/28 one. There are two arm sizes though, 170mm vs 175mm, not sure which one mine is, very hard to measure, I think it was 170mm. Installation at: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-0094A-001-ENG.pdf (archive) says to use "8 mm Allen key or a cotterless crank extractor (TL-FC10)". Identification: https://youtu.be/VMV-SOIhM2c?t=258 "Three Piece Crank of type Square Tapered Spin"
Front derailleur: markings Shimano Altus, 66-69 degrees, blue circle with two balls hyperdrive logo on top. Possibly Shimano Altus Front Derailleur FD-M310: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FD-M310-2676B.pdf
Mudguards: markings "Orion"