23.9.3. QEMU trace memory accesses
Not possible apparently, not even with the memory_region_ops_read and memory_region_ops_write trace events, Peter comments https://lists.gnu.org/archive/html/qemu-devel/2015-06/msg07482.html
No. You will miss all the fast-path memory accesses, which are done with custom generated assembly in the TCG backend. In general QEMU is not designed to support this kind of monitoring of guest operations.
Related question: https://reverseengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/12260/how-to-log-all-memory-accesses-read-and-write-including-the-memory-content-in